In the Kitchen with Lucia Bell-Epstein

Photography by Lucia Bell-Epstein

Words & interview by Harriet Davidson

It was curiosity and an early love of cooking that led now-photographer, Lucia Bell-Epstein, into the kitchen of the much loved New York City restaurant Prune when she was thirteen. Amongst the bustle of lunch service, the carefully organised walk-in fridge, and the conversations on film and art between chefs, the seed of Lucia’s future compulsion to photograph the often undisclosed beauty of life in a kitchen was planted. Lucia eventually went on to swap the knives for cameras and now works as a photographer, based in NYC with regular stints in Paris, working with chefs and in kitchens to capture their mostly ephemeral work and tell their vibrant stories, often working on cookbook projects. Through our conversation with Lucia, we come to understand that her work as an artist is all about story telling and about risk taking within her crafts, whether that be photography or cooking. Lucia shares with us her story into photography and what her process has come to be, including the daily places, people and moments she finds inspiration in, and she takes us around her NYC apartment sharing what the role of home plays in her creative life. 

IN BED 100% Linen Napkin Set & Tablecloth with hem stitch detail in White & Table Runner with embroidery detail in Natural.

On home … 

I am from NYC— I grew up on the Bowery [in lower Manhattan]. After studying in Montreal, I moved back to NYC in 2020. I was excited to live in Brooklyn and explore a part of the city different from where I grew up. Finding a place to live in NYC is tough; I really lucked out when a friend told me about this apartment becoming available. The previous tenant, who’d been here over 10 years, wanted to hand it over to an artist. 

It is a corner apartment, with south facing light in a crumbling pre-war brick building. The light is what drew me to the space — it swings across each room throughout the day. I also immediately felt drawn to the old moldings and vintage gas stove. I will have lived here for four years this April. I travel often for work, usually to Paris, and love apartment swapping with friends and family. I’m grateful to have built a community in both cities that has enabled me to work and travel this way.  

On what makes a home … 

My space is constantly in flux — I’ve swapped the dining and living room countless times and usually change the orientation of my bed once a year. What makes it feel like home are the books + art + a few objects I cherish: a small lamp, rocks from Maine, a print from my dad who is also a photographer, my restored cast iron pans, etc. While I do feel attached to this space and call it home, I’ve lived in various cities and apartments (some great, some quite shitty), and don’t mind moving. I enjoy re-establishing a new space to make it feel like home again. 

My space is constantly in flux — I’ve swapped the dining and living room countless times and usually change the orientation of my bed once a year.

Above, the table is set with our kitchen capsule collection.

On becoming a photographer … 

I was working as a line cook in Brooklyn. I brought a camera to work one day and began photographing raw, behind the scenes moments. I thought I wanted to become a chef until I discovered how much I love documenting kitchens, food, and cooks. I love telling stories.

I thought I wanted to become a chef until I discovered how much I love documenting kitchens, food, and cooks. I love telling stories.

On Lucia’s approach to photography … 

My approach is focused on storytelling, but with each project I shoot I take different risks and break my own rules in order to make the work. I immerse myself in my subjects’ environment before shooting, often spending time in kitchens without a camera and instead with a notebook, staging and helping cook. 

I draw + research visual archives before shooting. Drawing has been an important part of my practice long before I started making photographs. I often sketch and draw before shoots to rough out composition, movement, scale — all of those details. The research I conduct is always changing. Sometimes specific to the subject, sometimes just for inspiration. I look at paintings, old magazines, books, cookbooks, online archives, and visit the NYPL (New York Public Library). For instance, I find colour and texture in paintings that I seek to incorporate into my photographs. It’s a layered process. 

And approach to food … 

The same as my approach to photography — really centred on risk taking + storytelling with an emphasis on process. I love to cook at home and have friends + family over for Saturday lunch or Sunday breakfast. 

Lucia's table is draped with our 100% Linen Table Runner in White with embroidery detail. To the right sits a stack of Coasters in White with embroidery detail.

On influences and inspiration … 

Vintage advertisements of food on planes to Cecily Brown paintings to Waffle House menus to Wolfgang Tillmans to my Grandma’s jello cakes to lemon tarts from the River Cafe cookbook to Irving Penn still lifes to making eggs with my Dad to MOLD Magazine to Jack in the Box 1960s architectural plans to artist Rirkrit Tiravanija to the soft serve ice cream cone I had this afternoon from a Mister Softee truck. 

On landing in the Prune kitchen, and the impact those early days had … 

I used to babysit for Ned Baldwin’s kids when I was 13, and at the time he was the chef at Prune. I was curious about what went on in the kitchen, which led to my trialing at Prune and spending weekends there prepping for brunch and organising the walk-in fridge. I loved being in the kitchen and learning from everyone, not only about how to cook, but also about music, film and art. I learned how to taste, ask questions, make mistakes, and stay curious.

I wouldn’t be making my work today if I hadn’t spent time in kitchens. I’m grateful to Ned, Jay, Ellie, and all the chefs that I have worked with who have opened their kitchens to me as a cook and as an artist. 

An assortment of out kitchen capsule collection in Natural.

On the process …

A large part of my process when documenting kitchens is spending time in the space without a camera and with my notebook actually prepping and cooking with the back of house team. This enables me to discover shots I would not have envisioned creating, and it enables me to familiarise myself with everyone in the kitchen so that when I return with a camera there is an established sense of trust that translates into stronger, more authentic imagery. 

On the role food played in Lucia’s childhood … 

I was raised mostly vegetarian/pescatarian and went on to discover meat and other foods while working in restaurant kitchens. Growing up, my parents always loved to eat and cook. Food and the ritual of sitting down for dinner every night together, no matter what was happening in the world or how busy we were, was tradition. My mom is an amazing improvisational cook, she can take anything in the refrigerator and make something delicious and imaginative. This definitely influenced my curiosity about food and also my eye.

On how Lucia’s home space influences her creativity …

My home is not overly precious; it is practical and liveable, I don’t have uncomfortable furniture or fragile pieces. This allows me to host frequently, have friends come and stay, and really use the space to work in, as well as live in. The light is really what enables me to feel inspired. It is also comfortable, a place where I can relax and fully unwind after a long day on set or after coming home from a trip. 

My home is not overly precious; it is practical and liveable, I don’t have uncomfortable furniture or fragile pieces. 

On a most treasured possession … 

One of my most treasured possessions is a photo book by Japanese photographer Kishin Shinoyama titled SHOKU (FOOD) from 1993, which I got for my birthday two years ago at Dashwood Books [a bookshop in NYC specialising in photography books]. The photographs are close-ups of food and food preparation; the book is extravagantly designed with shiny gold end papers. It is a hardcover book in a stunning slipcase and printed shipping box, making the experience of unpacking and opening the book just as exhilarating as viewing the images.  

An egg plate atop our Placemat & Coasters in White with embroidery detail

On the bedside table … 

On my bedside table lives a glass of water, a bowl to place my jewellery before bed + a stack of books I am dipping in / out of  + a rock from Maine + my notebook / pen + hair ties + lip balm. I am currently reading The Hearing Test by Eliza Barry Callahan. 

On rituals, morning and evening … 

I am not great at following rituals and routines. I try to read before bed, stay off my phone, sketch, but truthfully it depends on my mood + how the day has gone. My favourite activity is taking a walk after dinner / early in the morning and going to Marlow + Sons for coffee + a lemon scone. My usual routine is to wake up quite early and have coffee + yoghurt + granola + fruit, or sometimes toast with butter + jam.  

On current projects … 

I am super excited about a cookbook I shot in the summer of 2022 that is set to come out this Spring! 

I have a few personal projects I am working on, as well as collaborations I am excited about. I’m very much in the process stage, a lot of doubt mixed with moments of satisfaction.